Friday, July 30, 2010
HONDURAS.
While my time here has been short and has gone by extremely fast, I have learned so much from just observing and from the many long conversations I´ve had with Sam and Morgan about, well, pretty much everything. The golpe, the government here and the outrageous US influence in the country, and the social issues that have come from "a nation of followers", as it has been put to me from several people. I will journey back to Guatemala on Sunday to pick up some stuff in Comalapa and get in one more day of work before heading back to DC on Tuesday! I´m definitely not ready to return. Or if I am, I am ready to take everything that I´ve learned this summer and let it have a lasting impact on my decisions to come.
Monday, July 19, 2010
EDUCATION.
Since returning from the lake Monday, this week has been full of very cerebral activity. Most of the time sheets for 2009 had not been entered, and we needed to put them into the new database, so we spent two days slaving away entering data. The director’s family was still here for several days this week, and on Tuesday his mother, who is a textiles goddess, wanted to learn how to do the traditional back-loom weaving. So Abi and I spent much of the day with her and her teacher translating since she doesn’t speak a word of Spanish (and her instructor doesn’t speak a word of English). That night was there despidida, and the food and company was absolutely incredible. They spoiled us over the past week with delicious foods and treats from the states! Yesterday, they went to the school in Cojol to present several suitcases full of supplies and other items they brought from the states, including athletic jerseys for the sports teams.
Today, we went back to the school to continue our environmental lessons with the 6th grade classes. We had them think about and discuss possible environmental changes that they would like to see in Comalapa over the next 5 years, then each class voted and settled on an over-arching project that they will work on for the next several weeks. The first class chose Reforestation as their project, and will be preparing information to present to the Municipalidad and potentially media outlets. The other class chose reducing the amount of trash on the streets, and will be creating a video including interviews and photos, and also preparing a play for other schools that will talk about the issues and how to solve them. Hopefully they will be able to learn a bit about some multi-media tools in the process. What incredible minds these kids have!
Today during class, I asked Rebecca how many of these students would actually progress to the next level of education. She said probably about 1 in 8, mostly because of monetary reasons. I found out the other day in discussion that after 6th grade, students have to pay to attend colegio including paying for their textbooks. Due to this fact, many students do not move on past the 6th grade (approximately 12 years old). At that point, they are old enough to work and bring money to their family. In the states this would be a travesty, unheard of, for a student to not move on after the 6th grade! But Rebecca reminded me that for the time that these kids are in school, they are learning incredibly practical skills (useful math, sewing, how to work with wood and tools, some weaving) along with the normal primary education goals. Who’s to say that the education they are receiving up until 6th grade is any less valuable than those who move on to continue their education? The professions that these students will be filling working in town and on farms are equally as important as those that the students who move on to become doctors. There’s this idea in the states that the level of education you’ve received determines your worth, but I definitely believe that experience can get you just as far in life. Maybe in the states we should focus less on forcing people into the highest levels of education possible and more on bettering the primary education system so that our students actually have something to grow from. I met a woman last weekend who is a kindergarten teacher in Harlem. The first thing I said in response was, “Wow! Those kids must be tough!” Due to no fault of their own of course. But we both agreed that there is an entire generation of children in the US that is being slighted by the crumbling education system. So while we pride ourselves in providing, free compulsory education for all kids in the US, which looks great on a paper, in reality, the education US kids are receiving pales in comparison to what kids are learning here, in many aspects. We still have much to learn ourselves.
Friday, July 16, 2010
TOURISTS.
This past weekend I had the chance to travel again and head to Lake Atitlan. The director of the organization’s family came from the states to visit for a week, and aside from treating us like family all week and feeding us, they gave us a free, and greatly appreciated, ride to the lake! The sight of the lake was absolutely breathtaking as we came around the mountains and descended into Panajachel. However, once we unloaded from the micro, I knew I was definitely in for an experience. One of the nice things about Comalapa is that even though we are “outsiders”, we are not hassled or ever really bothered unless we address someone and ask them for help. In tourist town, the minute you step out of a vehicle you are immediately approached and hassled by everyone to buy this and buy that. Tourists are literally walking money signs.
Lake Atitlan is literally a lake created by a collapsed volcanic dome, and is surrounded by three beautiful volcanoes. The most efficient way to travel from one town to another around the lake is by boat, so we wandered around Pana and tried to find the public dock so as not to get ripped off by the private boats. Our first night we spent in San Marcos…this place was RIDICULOUS. It was supposed to be good for swimming, and since most everyone (aside from myself of course) had the desire to swim in the lake, it seemed like the most likely first choice. This town was literally an implanted hippie paradise, and while I have nothing against hippies and paradise, this was not the Guatemala I was looking to spend time in; all there was were meditation and massage retreats and a really cool view. After a night in San Marcos, we hopped on another boat and headed to San Pedro, a town on another part of the lake. While San Pedro had a bit more going on, it was still overrun with tourists and aggressive street vendors. We watched the game (GO SPAIN!!), wandered around and met quite the array of interesting people. One night was definitely enough, and we headed back to Pana Monday morning to catch up with the family and head back to Comalapa.
Overall, while I didn’t particularly enjoy this tourist experience, it was a good learning experience, talking to people, observing people, understanding what brought them to these places. I talked to a man at La Piscina yesterday who is just there, in San Pedro, just for the sake of being there. He built a house, courted this wild woman who owns a restaurant/bar in town and is just living. We talked about how we’ve both moved a lot (his father was a diplomat), but he just decided to settle in San Pedro and see how it goes. Another guy we met was from Iowa, and he came to San Pedro just to get out of the US, have some fun and see some new culture. I had a hard time taking this guy seriously, and found myself being terribly judgmental! He was drunk, completely unaware of how loud he was, and had a far from modest appearance, to say the least. He talked about how the locals always beg, asking for money and whatnot. What has tourism done to these communities? That was the question I kept asking myself the entire weekend. Obviously this totally contrived western tourist culture exists everywhere, but I had never realized how severely it takes away from the real traditions of the region and how as tourists we are barely learning anything about these places that we claim to go for “cultural experiences.” Honestly, the only Guatemalans I saw in this entire area were the ones who were working in the service jobs. I’m sure that my sentiments were coming from having been in Comalapa for a month and a half now, where the culture and daily life is so rich and so purely Guatemalan, and where most Guatemalans seem to be so proud of everything they have, no matter how little. Are the Guatemalans working in these tourists happy with this idea of having to live their lives providing services to ungrateful extranjeros? Or is it just a means of getting by?
What we saw last weekend was not the real Guatemala – no pilas, no traditional foods, very little Spanish (even the locals knew enough English to harass you). It makes me wonder what the progression of these regions was like, how they become tourist icons. While I understand that I am essentially a tourist in this country too, I came with the understanding that I would need to humble myself to truly be able to absorb what life here is really about. I feel that as volunteers, and not just simply tourists, we are here representing something bigger than ourselves. We really are not unattached by any means, because when we come into an environment like the ones we were in this weekend and someone asks us what we are doing in the country, everything they’ve seen up until that moment is a reflection of what it means for us to be volunteers here. We are working for and with a community to meet its needs and learn, but that will not matter in the end if all someone sees is a volunteer carrying on in public and acting like a fool. Essentially, that is why I think it is so important for us to be able to get out to meet other extranjeros and see what others are doing here.
Friday, July 9, 2010
COMMUNITY.
FINALLY made it to Antigua this weekend! But before that, Friday night we had all the volunteers over to our new home for dinner with our host family. We made fajitas for them and they were DELICIOUS. Blanca, my host mother, loves carne so much so she was definitely in heaven, and with the guacamole and drinks abound, everyone was having a good time. By the end of the night Blanca had everyone dancing to Los Conejos, and even though she had to get up the next morning at 4:00AM to head to the markets, we were all in good spirits by the end of the night.
We arose around 6:00AM to catch the camioneta (which is now conveniently outside my front door) and headed to Antigua. Once we arrived, we found a great place to have breakfast and of course watch the Germany vs. Argentina match. What a depressing and embarrassing loss for Argentina! I was really rooting for them, but that was just ugly. Then we went off to the pacas for some clothing shopping. To no avail, I was unable to find a real raincoat (the one I brought is only acting as a windbreaker – LAME in the middle of the RAINY SEASON, thanks jacket). But while Rebecca was shopping, at one moment she put her bag between her feet and in a second it was gone! It contained her ATM card, wallet and flash drive, and she was devastated by the loss. But it just shows that it only takes one single moment to slip up and have everything disappear. We lent her some more money for the day, grabbed some papusas for lunch, watched some of the next game, bargained for some gifts, and then spontaneously decided to stay the night instead of heading home. We stayed in Hostel Holistico for 60Q, took some HOT showers AND got free breakfast in the morning! It was my first hot shower since the night I left home over 4 weeks ago! Incredible. Rose the next morning to a beautiful sight of the Volcan Agua, got a bagel and had an interesting conversation with a Jewish man from Cleveland who sells Passover “Hagatas” (obviously at the bagel shop, haha), then headed back to Comalapa. Antigua was such a fascinating city because it has such rich architecture but a calm atmosphere for being a city. There were sooo many tourists there! I was talking with someone from Comalapa, and he said that they refer to Antigua as “Gringo-landia” because there are very few Guatemaltecas and sooooo many gringos! I did miss the inexpensive and conservative lifestyle of Comalapa and was definitely ready to return. It was funny though because most places we went, people automatically assumed that I was not from the states and didn’t speak English. They were often surprised when I responded in English, but I would explain where my families are from to ease any confusion.
(Tuesday)
Today I went to Guate with Donal to retrieve Karen from the airport! I was nervous at first because I hadn’t been to Guate since I arrived over a month ago and I was simply going by myself, well kind of, with Donal and would be speaking Spanish the entire time with him. We had great conversation though on our drive! I told him about school, work, family and my time in Comalapa so far, and we talked about fast-food favorites and Michael Jackson (obviously…he had the CD playing!), and he told me about his family and what it’s like working in Guatemala. He told me about the minimum wage here, and how it’s so hard to find work outside of being a campesino where you only make 40Q a week (approx $5), and part of the reason that he bought a car was so that he could do work in areas outside of Comalapa to make money for wife and two young children. He made the comparison to US minimum wages because he read an article in the paper here about how minimum wage in the US $7.50/hr, whereas you don’t even make the equivalent of that much one week here! He said it’s no wonder so many people want to leave to work in the states. I told him conditions are barely any better there but the money IS so good, comparatively speaking. I told him that most kids leave home when they head off to college, and he said that barely anyone attends university here because it is too difficult to work and study at the same time. Needless to say, it was definitely an enlightening conversation and so interesting based on all that happened last week with the workers on my thoughts on their pay situation.
Since last week, I’ve had many thought-provoking conservations about what it means to live in a community and be considered a community-based organization. The work that we are doing here is incredible in the sense that it is highlighting the needs of the community and providing specific resources (the park, building the school, building the water tanks, environmental awareness programs in the schools). But I’ve been struggling with this idea of whether or not we are truly integrated into this community. Most of the volunteers and staff all live at the park, and aside from coming into town for food or the market, there is not a whole lot of regular interaction with the community. Rebecca lives in town, and does a truly incredible job of reaching out and making connections and friends and honestly breathing the same air and life of the people in this community. But I feel like there is a serious disconnect with the rest of the organization in a way. Spending all day at the park building a rock bench for the soccer field is a useful task, but not necessarily the best way to connect with the community on any level. Abi and I were having a discussion last week about really playing to the emotions of the volunteers that pass through here and making them truly question how they could change their life to help the people of this community and the many others that have similar needs. But I feel as though it is so easy to come here for a week and simply feel like an extra pair of hands. Hell, I’ve been here for 5 weeks now, and there are many times where I often just feel like an extra pair of hands. It’s a difficult balance, and I wonder if this is a feeling that resonates through volunteers with most development organizations, or if there is just something about the way day-to-day operations around here are done that creates that feeling. While I have learned a lot in my time here so far (through learning new skills and asking a LOT of questions) and came with very few expectations, I do often wonder about what more potential this experience could be or could have been for me. I am also becoming curious about operations of other development and non-profit organization functioning in Central America, and what their approaches and true underlying motivations are. It certainly seems to me that these underlying motivations are far deeper and more abstract than they initially appear to be.
(Thursday)
I finally had the opportunity to volunteer in one of the local schools, Cojol Huyu, and it was quite the experience. We had prepared the lesson plan several weeks ago, but with the fair one week and just simply not having school another week, we started our Environmental Awareness/continued English Lessons Wednesday. We worked with two fourth grade classes, one 5th grade class, and two 6th grade classes. For the 4th and 5th grade classes, we taught them about the Food Chain (producers, consumers, herbivores, omnivores, carnivores, etc) and then had them begin making their own food chain mobiles. With the 6th grade classes we had them do a survey around their school to find out how environmentally conscience their practices are. After we had them discuss projects that we could implement in the community of Comalapa to make people more environmentally aware. The students we sooo disciplined and respectful and were even receptive to my broken, but steadily improving Spanish. I was so nervous about working with them because my Spanish is not nearly as good as Rebecca or Abi, but I was still able to be helpful. A little more about what school is like here: it seems chaotic, but what elementary school doesn’t when you are first there. There are about 25 students in each class, and they have class for only 5 hours a day. While this school in Cojol only has morning classes, some schools in the area are so large that half the students come in the morning for 5 hours, and half the students come in the afternoon. Some of the instructors looked SO young, but they were eager to learn English phrases as well. Students in Cojol have been stuffing the trash bottles for AGES, and this past month one of the classes brought 300 trash bottles to the park! Incredible. Today we went to the largest school in the area, Rafael Alvarez, to talk to the Director about starting a bottling stuffing contest among the 4th, 5th and 6th grade classes there. Between those grades, there are 300 hundred students and 12 classes. He seemed eager for us to start the project, so next week Rebecca will return to speak in more detail with the instructors to explain the process and the competition. We will be making posters to hang in each classroom to make everything as simple as possible for the students. Hopefully they will be receptive to the challenge, because it would be great to have that many more people in Comalapa stuffing trash bottles instead of throwing it on the ground or burning it!
In other news, I finally got in touch with Sam in Honduras, and we have mostly confirmed our plans to meet up at the end of July! He’s been working with OYE, Organization for Youth Empowerment, in Progreso, Honduras, since mid-May. Sam will hopefully be coming to check out LWH for a few days, and then I plan to travel back to Honduras with him to spend a couple of days there learning about his organization before heading back to the states! It will most certainly be nice to see some familiar faces (Morgan is there too!), share our experiences, and just hang out in Central America with a great friend for a few days at the end of my journey! I now just need to talk to the LWH about leaving roughly a week earlier than anticipated. I figure it shouldn’t make too much a difference because there are a ton of new volunteers coming in at the end of July, and since I’m not an intern and have no real commitment to anyone but myself, I should be able to leave as I please. The only thing I feel weird about but entitled to is asking to get my money back for the two weeks that was/will not be here for. I came a week late at the beginning of the summer because of unforeseen circumstances (you know, tropical storms, volcanoes, the usual), and if I leave a week early that’s another week I shouldn’t necessarily be paying for. While I know that this experience is not about the money, $150 US dollars can definitely get me a long way when I get home and have NOTHING, especially since I literally gave everything to be here to work for them this summer. Not to mention, I feel that will have definitely put in a lot of time and energy into the organization…needless to say, I just hope they don’t get all awkward about the money situation.
(Friday)
After thinking long and hard, I think I've decided that I am only going to request money back for the one week that I wasn't here at the beginning of the summer. However, I am going to specifically request that the remaining $75 go to Rebecca's education projects. There is so much potential there and the students are SO receptive to her passion and what she is trying to do for them. I was talking to her yesterday about her funding, and she got $50 total for this Environmental Awareness month-long project with the schools. While $50 can get you way farther here than in the states, it's still not much. Anyway, I will talk to her today and see what she says.
I'm sooo glad it's Friday! I haven't been feeling %100 this week, so our trip to Lake Atitlan this weekend should be amazing!
Friday, July 2, 2010
JULIO.
First, I should thank my mom for graciously sending me a care package via someone who arrived here yesterday! I finally got my peanut butter and new socks among other things, and I couldn’t have been more happy. I am almost at the end of my fourth week, and all of the dirt covering pretty much everything I own is seemingly permanent. I miss taking REAL showers (I have yet to have a showerhead spray water on me) and I strangely have persevered a singular pair of socks that are only when I am in my bed – my efforts to keep some part of my life clean.
Today was a tumultuous day for the organization. While I am only versed in what I heard from others, I am still trying to formulate my opinions on the situation. Guatemalan labor laws dictate that all workers must be paid minimum wage (somewhere between 40 and 50Q a week?), in addition to a 250Q bonus each month and 6 weeks vacation throughout the year, not including holidays (mind you, workers get 3 week days off for the fair). However, it is a struggle for an organization like this to maintain local employees at those standards with the little money that they have. Instead of some of those benefits, the organization pays the workers well and provides them with other needs (money, food, they all received new work boots last week). Apparently, the workers came together as a union and contacted the Ministry of Labor to file a claim that they have not been receiving appropriate benefits. The Ministry arrived today and all hell kind of broke loose. The workers are demanding that they receive all the money that has not been granted to them for this year and back pay from the time each of them began working with the organization. I do think the claim is valid. I say this only because I imagined what this situation would be like if I were in their shoes in my own country, needing to feed a family and myself. Although I understand the financial difficulties of an organization, it is a worker’s right to be awarded an appropriate amount for their work, and an employer’s duty to do so. At the same time, there is a perception that because it is an American organization that it is made out of money. This fact is obviously not true, as non-profits struggle everyday to find enough funds for materials, staff and other random operational costs. I’m not sure how it will all play out, but I will most certainly be interested to see the results of this new, and fairly sizeable battle.
I moved into my homestay yesterday, and so far it has been an adventure. Blanca and Emiliano are my host parents, and Yani, who is 12 and loves Michael Jackson and Argentina, is my host brother. Tonight when we came home, they were cooking dinner, and Blanca brought out photo albums and tried to feed me different types of meat she was making (“me encanta carne,” she says), and Yani told me about school, and Emiliano and I talked about futbol and school and my family…and needless to say, although I only understand about half of what they were saying, I will be most certainly speaking a lot of Spanish around here.
I finally received the Engineers’ Report from Earthship, so I plan on sifting through that over the next several days. I had an interesting talk with one of the volunteers this morning (she is a WOOFer! so jealous), and we were talking about our perceptions of the management of the program and the development of these massive building projects. It was a good talk because I found myself asking all of these questions as far as wanting to see the feasibility of these methods being used in different environments, and wondering about how these operations would flow with different organization and management styles, and how these grand engineering decisions were made without a formal engineer on staff. I’ve finally gotten past the shock and awe stage of my time here and can start digging deeper.
(Friday).
This morning the organization had a meeting in Chimaltenango with the Ministry of Labour. They explained the situation, showed some of the organization's video, and essentially were able to escape fines and having to pay the workers their backpay. The workers also have to sign a document agreeing to cede their money and continue working under the current wages. In one sense, this is great for the organization because they won't be bankrupt from having to pay all of those funds, but on the other hand it's terribly unfortunate that the workers are having to essentially give in or lose their job. The Labour laws of this country should've have been assessed prior to hiring so much staff (both Guatemalan staff and US staff), and should've been acknowledged from the start. Just because this is an American organization operating in another country doesn't mean that the workers don't deserve the rights afforded to them by their own country.
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
HANDS.
The texture of my hands have changed. Not that they were particularly soft before, but now they are dry and VERY rough. Laborer’s hands. The result of digging, cobbing, weeding, mixing…no amount of lotion can sooth them, but it’s definitely a true testament to how much I’ve grown, in some way, over the past several weeks. But I still have a long way to go.
This past weekend we worked on a project that really showed me why the work that LWH is doing here is so important. A few of us had originally planned on going to Antigua for the weekend, but we scrapped those plans on Friday based on the need for workers to build a “Tinoco.” A tinoco is a huge, 400 gallon water tank that is attached to a drainage system to catch and store rain water for everyday use. We awoke at 6:00AM on Saturday, which is usually one of our two days off after a 40 hour week, grabbed our tools and began our walk to the house across town where we would be building. After walking a while and up a STEEP hill, we arrived. House is used loosely here; the single 30-year old mother of 4 lived in small room with dirt floors, no running water (the closest pila is down a steep hill), and wooden planks covered in blankets for a bed. The 3 children greeted us because their mother was in town at the market, but they immediately came out and helped in whatever way they could. We spent ALL day sifting sand, mixing concrete, stuffing the form for the water tank, covering it in cement, and all the while the mother graciously fed us with all she could. Of course, it started POURING around mid-afternoon, and as miserable as I was at that point (I hate being wet!), we continued to work through the rain! 10 hours after beginning, we finally finished and walked away tired and cold. Initially, the mother was apprehensive about the tank because she was worried about what others would think of her having one and no one else, but she obliged, and rightfully so. While collecting water and carrying it up that hill was part of her daily life, hopefully we have removed some of the strain from her routine. The goal of the water tank project is to not only provide a necessary resource for those without water, but also to teach the techniques to others so that they can the process over and over again long after we are gone.
Today, I worked in the tire house kitchen. We are building a stove using rammed earth, cinder blocks, bricks and tile. It was a nice change to be part of the construction thought process, and I even learned some useful masonry skills at the same time! With all the gardening and building skills I’ve been learning, I think of the endless possibilities of things I could do at home for my mom (maybe we’ll start a garden next summer?)!
I can’t believe it’s already the end of June! I have 5 more weeks here, and I’m trying to think of all the things I would like to accomplish during the month of July. I want to learn to play Rebecca’s ukulele. I want to continue to learn more about Guatemalan history. I want to master making ROUND tortillas (so far, mine keep coming out in odd shapes). I want to speak more Spanish. I want to travel with the little money I have. I want to hear (and understand) more stories of the people of Comalapa. I met a man and woman in a Tortilleria yesterday, and while eating the most delicious El Salvadorian papusas (the woman is from El Salvador), the man told us about the time he spent in the US doing roofing and working at a Chinese restaurant in Los Angeles. He told us about his several attempts to cross the border, the first time being rejected because he tried to use someone else’s passport (“we weren’t quite twins”, he said). I was just so impressed with his determination, and no, life in the US is tough and not nearly what anyone would expect it to be, but when you’re goal is to make money for your family, that hard work and American money can get you pretty far.
This week I will be moving into a homestay! There are a lot of volunteers coming in throughout the month of July, and while they were discussing where to place everyone, I finally owned up to my thoughts and confessed that I had an interest in doing so. My roommate, Abi, and I had casually talked about it last week, and it turns out that one of the host families can house several volunteers, so we will be going together! The family lives in town, so I will be able to spend more time taking in daily life outside of the program, and will also be able to speak (and hear) WAY more Spanish! I feel like the family lives on the better end of things because Rebecca says that they have cable and a refrigerator, but living with them will still be a completely different and valuable experience. Apparently, the father and son have a love for the discovery channel, so I can most definitely benefit from that! Although living in the volunteer house has been convenient, my Spanish hasn’t been improving as much as I would like because all the new vocabulary I learn is quickly forgotten with the amount of English we ALWAYS speak here. I can’t wait to pack tomorrow! Hasta luego, pues
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Week 3.
It’s been a mildly frustrating week. Working with an NGO definitely has its high and low points. High obviously because the end product of the work we are doing is going to be infinitely rewarding to those who will benefit from the school, or the park, or the water tanks, and also learn about the green processes so that they can continue these methods. Low though because money is short, and the day to day communication and organization is not always there. This week I’ve felt pretty lost as to what I was supposed to be doing. Work up at the school has been stalled for the time being because the final courses of tires on one of the technical buildings was completed last week, and the next steps are hard to complete in the rain. ALSO, most of the staff has gone to the states to work on projects with Earthship, and the staff still here can’t be spread too thin. While it’s nice not to have to dig everyday right now, I would almost prefer it. Currently, all of the other volunteers here are doing internships for school, so they all have set projects to complete while they are here (working in the garden, building water tanks, translating the website). I, however, in my attempt to not mindlessly throw $3000 at GW for internship credit, don’t have a set project. So this week I’ve kind of become the floater. Working in the garden, sitting up at the school to watch the land (there always has to be someone there, and with everyone down at the park working, I was sent to babysit for a day)…I wish that I had something so concrete to be doing everyday, that I came here to complete. Then again, I didn’t come here with any expectations other than to be useful, so I guess in that sense I am fulfilling my “goal.” I was also asked to write about “hurrying” versus taking life too casually. At first I was annoyed and flustered by the fact that I was being abrasively singled out to do this, but the writing exercise was good and really did get me thinking about selflessness in our own slices of the world as compared to though who dedicated their lives to representing something and someone bigger than themselves.
I think next week will be better. More volunteers are coming in, and so organization is going to be key. I’ve been assigned to work on completing the kitchen in the tire house, so that should be alright because I’ll have the chance to learn some new construction techniques. They’ve also asked me to complete a roughly 10-page report on the history of rammed earth practices, how it is used elsewhere, and how we utilize them here. I AM actually glad to be doing this, because it’s something tangible that will help because they plan to put it on the website as a resource and almost as a way to verify the practices they are using here for those interested in the organization. I think this may have come about based on my conversations with the head of the program about how, in my ongoing attempts to do a structural analysis, there are many, MANY questions that are unanswerable about the process and materials being used.
In other news outside of work, this week is Fair Week here in Comalapa. Schools close and people take days off work to spend their time in town at the fair, riding the crazy hand-built ferris wheels, eat tons of AMAZING food, listen to live music, and drink all night. We went to the fair last night to do just that. We ate far too much, listened to Los Conejos, rode the ferris wheels (with my eyes closed for most of the time on one of them because they go SO fast and I was fairly certain I was going to fall out), and drank our fair share of Quetzalteca and Brahva. And still made it to bed by midnight!
I got an email from my old boss at the museum the other day, and she told me she was coming to Guatemala! In the process of trying to figure out how and when to meet up, I sent her the info about LWH because she mentioned wanting to practice Spanish and work, and she decided to apply to come volunteer for a few days! Finally, a visitor! So she’ll be arriving on July 6! I can’t wait, especially since I haven’t seen her in SO long! It should be a pretty groovy time.
I really can’t figure out why this program won’t let me upload photos, so I’ll be making an album and I’ll post the link!
Monday, June 21, 2010
REBEL.
...
let the world fall away
to snowfalls of dust
and institutions of clutter
demanding dirty dishes and laundry
leave it all along the asphalt
there is lots of jungle left
the birds are blue and green
trees are truer than television
the sky holds a million sparks
for each of us
we are withering in our darkness
under electric light
our bleached sheets and blankets
will never be clean
we will not survive
until we set ourselves free.
Anonymous, 1982
Friday, June 18, 2010
BUILDING. (Friday)
I see myself becoming more and more interested in the overall designs of the projects. While understanding structural integrity is valuable, I would love to learn more about buildings from an architectural perspective. It’s definitely the creative side of a civil’s job (let’s be honest, the engineer makes the bridge or building “work”, the architect gives it its beauty). I’ve never been a very good detail oriented drawer, but that doesn’t mean I won’t try to learn…anyway, it’s definitely something that I would like to look into more when I get back to the states.
I had pancakes for dinner last night, and it made me miss home so much! I guess I just ate so many pancakes when I was home for two weeks! Strange how the little things like food can create those feelings…I could also really go for a toasted PB&J right now too but alas NO peanut butter!!
I think tomorrow my roommate and I are going to Chimaltenango, which is the city closest to Comalapa. We can take the chicken bus there for extremely cheap and spend the day exploring the market, maybe hit up the paca for some good stuff (a paca is pretty much all this random stuff probably sent from good wills or something that is sold for incredibly cheap, example: last week the volunteer coordinator found a northface rain jacket for 10Q= a little more than a $1!), and maybe get some taco bell!
QUOTES
“If we do not change our direction, we are likely to end up where we are headed.” – Chinese Proverb
“ The good building is not one that hurts the landscape, but one which makes the landscape more beautiful than it was before the building was built.” – Frank Lloyd Wright
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
RAIN. (Wednesday)
Working at the site has still been pretty tedious for me. We generally arrive between 7:00 and 7:30 and leave sometime after 4:00 or 5:00. LONG DAY. All volunteers are required to work 40 hours a week. And this week I’ve been helping the Guatemalan workers mix and carry dirt to pack the tires, which is tough because I never know what they are saying unless they are speaking directly to me. Imagine spending an entire day working around people and having NO IDEA what they are saying! GAH. I finally met with the head architect of the project and we had a great discussion about what projects I can work on for the summer instead of only doing manual labor at the site. While I’ve just been doing a lot of different tasks, I told her I was genuinely interested in how they were making their decisions as far as what materials, the designs, how they handle running into complications in the overall process, etc. After going through each of the CAD designs, she decided that it would be beneficial for me to do a structural analysis of the various building designs to determine how the structures and materials will bear loads, handle stresses and strains, etc. Obviously I LOVE this project because it means several things for me:
A) I get to actually use some of my education
B) I don’t have to dig ALL day, EVERY day, just most days
C) I get to do research to determine how to include the wide variances in materials instead of traditional steel, iron, etc that is generally used
D) I get to play with AutoCAD. (which to this day is still my all-time favorite engineering class). win.
Tires are tricky, especially filled with dirt, so I think they will prove to be my biggest challenge when doing my analysis. Even my professor was stumped when I emailed him! The company called Earthship Biotecture has been providing a basis for rammed-earth tire building for almost thirty years now, and apparently their books are like Bibles around here. Still trying to get my hands on them. But the structures they build are incredible and beautiful! Check out their website (www.earthship.com). Much of the actual staff is leaving in the next few days to work on a project in the states for several weeks, so I’m trying to get as much out of them as possible before they leave!
Other than that, I’m still trying to get my bearing around here…I could walk around in circles for days and still not know where I am in town. And it’s not even that big! I’m attempting to learn how to cook more, and with less (although I just BURNED rice…never done that before). My new roommate just arrived and will be here till mid-August, so hopefully she will want to do some exploring with me! Other than that, I’m trying to stay warm and stay motivated! If you have any creative ideas for a civil engineering project let me know ☺
Still working on the photos…for some reason it’s not working for me…
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Mud. (Friday)
Yesterday was the first day when I felt real frustration of being here. Since it’s an ongoing project, there’s not always someone to stop and explain to me what I should necessarily be doing. In some ways this is great because there’s not so much oversight that I feel like someone is breathing down my neck, but at the same time, it’s hard to always know what to do or if what I am doing is even right. All four days this week I’ve been working up on the site, mostly digging. Although I definitely started to build up some strength, digging for 4 days in a row can get REALLY old REALLY fast. We’ve been working on a trench behind the “main” building (I’m still kinda confused as to what everything is called because I’m still waiting for a decent tour of the site). The trench is necessary because the wall behind the building collapsed during the storm last week. So basically it’s a pit of mud that needed to be dug out so that we could put up a nylon tarp over the back of the building. The only problem is that at the end of every day we would get the trench to where it needed to be, then come back the next morning after the evening rains and see that half the wall had collapsed into the trench again! So literally the same thing, over and over again. I hate that trench. Needless to say, doing the same thing over and over again was frustrating, and to add to that I’m still struggling to understand the Guatemalan workers at the site. And with very few volunteers actually on site that day, I wanted nothing more than to be done and in my bed. I made it through though and had some delicious gringas (burrito-esque) and pastels in town. When we came back all I wanted to do was sleep, but the rain was SO LOUD on the tin roof that I literally couldn’t hear myself speaking to my roommate, Lani. Not to mention, there’s a minor leak above my bed, so some water dripping at the foot of my bed. I ALMOST managed to sleep a full night without waking up. SO CLOSE.
Today we went back out to the site around 7:00 and the trench was finally ready for “cobbing.”
Cobbing 101
Step 1: Mix mass amounts of mud with clay and pine needles to make a consistency that resembles “thick cake batter”
Step 2: Get into the trench with a bucket of cob, ball the mud into your hand and throw it at the tire wall so that it sticks.
Step 3: Repeat until the entire wall is covered.
Needless to say, I was covered in mud from head to toe. And as if we weren’t lucky enough this week, there was a HUGE rainstorm in the middle of the afternoon that not only filled the trench with more mud, but made cobbing that much more intense! We did finish though, put the nylon up and called it a day. Despite the grossness of being covered in crusty mud, it is really fascinating stuff. When it is fully saturated, it almost becomes like quicksand; it just sucks you in! And it shifts around like it should be viscous, but it’s cohesive enough that it doesn’t flow! So strange.
Tonight we are having a despidida for two of the volunteers who have been here for a while and are leaving in the next few days. My roommate was only here for a week and left today so it’s gonna be sad and quiet tonight! Tomorrow we are going to watch the US v. UK game, which should be a treat. That’s all for now. Still working on figuring out how to upload photos...
Thursday, June 10, 2010
CHUCHO! Week One
DISCLAIMER: Sorry this first post is so long! This is the first time I've been able to get my own computer hooked up to internet...more updates and photos to come!
(Monday)
The past few days have absolutely been a whirlwind, from leaving my house in Sand Lake to drive 3 or so hours to the airport, to getting on several flights (Detroit à Houston à Guatemala City). Getting in the car was kind of when everything just hit me all at once, that I was actually going to embark upon this journey, much less by myself, for 2 months! When I arrived in Guatemala City, I was so nervous about even getting through the airport! I kept my cool, followed the masses and used the most basic Spanish EVER to get through migracion and customs. The airport was so strange because it seemed so empty! Through the exit though, everyone outside was waiting on the other side of this barricade holding up signs for whomever they were waiting for. Based on the State Department’s Consulate website, I should’ve been mugged, kidnapped and slashed the minute I walked into Guatemala City (thanks for talking me down from that ledge, David!) but OBVIOUSLY I was fine! I found Rebecca, the volunteer coordinator, and we hopped into our taxi and we were on our way.
The drive through Guatemala City was, interesting to say the least. Even flying over (I was lucky enough to have a window seat, thanks Continental) was interesting because the landscape is absolutely stunning but it’s a very flat city, with regards to the heights of the buildings. The designs of most of the buildings are interesting for an area that probably experiences a decent number of earthquakes and other natural happenings. Anyway, back to the trip, driving was crazy because there seems to be a lack of order for the most part. Cars were swerving all over the places, around buses, tractors, bicycles, walkers, horses, cows…you name it, it was in the street along the drive. It was also interesting to still see many piles of volcanic ash just chilling on the side of the road. The drive through the hills up to Comalapa was absolutely breathtaking! The beauty of the land is so unreal, and was even more impressive because many of the hillsides were farmed (what a surprise to see farms on hills instead of flat lands like the Midwest!). We drove up the narrow, winding road, and after an hour and a half we finally arrived at Parque Chimiya, the site of the volunteer house.
The volunteer house is a beautiful little enclosed area with several bedrooms, and open patio area, and a communal kitchen. There area a lot of rules as far as how to clean your dishes, and what to do with trash (if it’s plastic is gets stuffed in a plastic bottle to be used for building, if its food it goes to the dogs, if it’s scrap it gets composted, if it’s paper it gets burned) Long Way Home is trying to set an example for more proper use of waste to reduce the amount of trash just being tossed in the dump…I’ll get more into that later. Anyway, for showers, you have to boil water to pour into a giant bucket, then add some cold water from the showerhead, then take a sponge bath (unless you are brave enough to take a FREEZING cold shower, which I am not!). For food, we often eat together, so we go to the market in town once a week to buy enough food for everyone and all chip in.
Anyway, after I arrived, I got a tour of the volunteer area, main office, herb and tree garden, the tire house prototype, and Parque Chimiya. Parque Chimiya, which was the first project by Long Way Home, is a public park with a futfol field, basketball court, public cooking space and outdoor classroom patio. The Public can either pay to enter, which goes towards maintenance, or bring a plastic bottle to gain entry. After my tour, I spent time getting to know some other volunteers and playing A LOT of euchre! Cheese is a delicacy around here since you can’t really get it anywhere in Guatemala, and one of the volunteer who also just arrived brought the most delicious block of sharp cheese, so we devoured pretty much the entire thing and called it a night. AT 9:30! SO EARLY! But I definitely went right to sleep, after listening to the stray dogs bark in a unified chorus for a bit.
(Tuesday)
Today was the first day of real work for me since I arrived in the evening. In Guatemala, in gets dark VERY early, around 5:30 or 6, and the sun rises very early as well, around 6 or so. So I woke up this morning to a very confused rooster and birds feeling like it was 9AM or something and it was actually only a little after 6AM! My roommate, Lani, and I got up around 7:00 and got ready to head to the market. Tuesday is the big market day, so we tagged along with one of the other more experienced volunteers to get all the food for the week. What an overwhelming treat! I learned a lot of new vocabulary, had some new foods, and am definitely NOT prepared to ever have to do that alone for everyone! It was my first walk through town though, and the artwork and murals were beautiful! Comalapa is known to be an artisan community, so hopefully I can find some nice work to bring home! Overall, we came back with two huge backpacks full of fresh fruit and vegetables among other treats, and each of us only had to chip in 60 Quetzales, which is less than $10! Life here is going to be cheap, which can never hurt J
After we left the market, Rebecca took us by the city dump, which is this HUGE crevasse, a beautiful natural occurrence, where people literally just tip over their wheel barrows and DUMP their trash! It was a striking and horrifying sight to see. I took some photos that I’ll have to upload. Seeing it just gave more meaning to the work that the program is trying to do as far as teaching the locals how to dispose of their waste in less destructive ways that can actually help to build up their community. We headed back to the volunteer house to drop off the food, have lunch and prepare to head up to “The Land,” as it is referred to.
The Land is the future site of Escuela Tecnico Maya, which will be a primary and technical school for the locals to use that will be almost completely built out of sustainable materials (tires, glass and plastic bottles). The history behind the school is this: The government funds local schools across the country, and like any good and trustworthy government, they set standards for what can and cannot be taught in the schoolhouse. Comalapa is Mayan community, and most of la gente speak Spanish and “ke-chee-kal”, a Mayan language. Mayan language and culture is taught in the schools in this area, a fact that the government was not fond of; because of this, much of the funding was cut, and with a lacking budget, the size of the school and programs being offered also suffered. Needless to say, Long Way Home stepped in to help build a new school and facilities. We headed up to the land to get to work, and first project I worked on was digging out dirt on one of the tire retaining walls that collapsed during Tropical Storm Agatha last week. After a couple of months of doing this week, I will definitely be in good shape, that’s for sure! After a few hours of digging, the afternoon storms moved in, and we continued to work through the rain, which made EVERTHING so muddy! Of all the things I packed, I am certainly grateful that I made room for my rainboots! Those will take me a long way this summer! After all of our work, we walked to the Dispensa (pretty much a normal grocery store) to get some cold drinks and head home.
One of the volunteers is doing a Homestay, and his Dad, Jimmy, invited some of us to their home for dinner tonight. MY first taste of comida de Comalapa! I was so nervous because the entire night would be in Spanish, and while I am pretty good at understanding, I am still struggling to regain my vocabulary. I did alright though, mostly listening and not too much speaking, but it was definitely a learning experience! I am considering doing a homestay for a month of my trip, only because I truly want to progress in my Spanish, and being forced to speak more frequently can only help, especially since only English is spoken in the volunteer house. I mean, I might as well since I have the opportunity! The food was delicious, the conversation was rich and I really had a great time! I’m so glad that I was able to go!
Interestingly enough, a tangible fear in Guatemala are stray dogs! Sometimes they roll alone, sometimes they have the pack mentality, but they are everywhere and many of them are SCARY. A stray dog is called a “chucho” and they are not to be reckoned with. They will growl, bark, chase and sometimes even bite if you don’t send them off quickly. We had our first run-in with a chucho on our walk home from dinner, and I was terrified to say the least! I need to collect rocks or get a stick to chase them off with.